B727-200 Tips and hints

B727-200

 

This is for 727-200, scale 1/72

 

As this kit does not include any construction sheet, this topic should support you building it.
I will not comment or discuss any primer/paint issues, because you all use your preferred brands.

The very first I did, was to check the fitting of the tabs of all wings, stabilizers and engines. It turned out that all tabs became thinner during the molding / casting process. This applies to most of Authentic Airliner kits, too.
I prefer a tight fit, because I do not want to glue these parts to the fuselage. Thereby, I can paint them separately and remove these parts for easier transportation. To solve this problem, I add some styrene pieces on one side of the tabs.
I usually start with 0,25 mm styrene, adding more or sanding down, whatever is required.

 

wingtab_zps53960bd2_727,172

 



Next step was a bit nasty, sanding off all residual resin on top of the fuselage to get a flush surface but, all done in an hour. After this, I added the #2 engine intake, also a bit filling and sanding required here.

To prepare the fuselage for the paint shop, the cockpit interior and the clear piece must be inserted.
Here I discovered the first flaws on my own design but, as we all know, this happens to the 1:1 scale airliners, too, when entering daily line operation.
After looking to some cockpit photos, I noticed that most of the 727s cockpit seats came without a head rest. I simply cut the head rest off, of the kit´s seats. The dashboard is to high, obstructing the clear piece to get into place properly. I sanded down the lower side of the central pedestal until I have got a good fitting. Last but not least the bore holes for the control columns are too far forward and I drilled new ones as you can see below.




This is all a matter of minutes.
You will need a bit more time to adjust the clear part. It takes some careful sanding, mostly on the rear and lower sides of this piece. Only remove very little at a time and make test fittings after each step. After, I was happy with the result, I painted the inside in dull black to avoid any shine through effect later. Be careful to keep a good distance to the windows. My experience during building the BPK 1:72nd 732 has shown, that the clear eyebrow windows do not look realistic, hence I`ll use decals for this model.
Before closing the cockpit area, I added a few details like seat belts, fire push handles and a checklist on top of the dashboard. You can, of course, do much more to it but, for my liking, it is good enough.








 

 

I did mask the cockpit windows with Bare Metal Foil and prepared the wing root landing lights.



I am using clear parts from a Hasegawa stand.
At first, I cut out an area slightly bigger than the landing light from the wing root and blended in the clear piece in, fixing it into position with a small drop of superglue.




You can now sand the clear piece to conform to the wing root shape.



The most difficult step was to make a template for the light. I used 0,25mm styrene to make the template. It was then slightly affixed to a masking tape by using Micro Metal Foil Adhesive and the masking foil was carefully cut out along the sides of the template.



After this, I removed the clear piece from the wing root using a razor blade and sanded the inside hollow. All surfaces of the clear piece where then polished ranging from 600 grade up to 12000. For the lights itself, I used 2 and 1 mm lenses from Little Car.

 

I have painted the entire fuselage in white and partly detailed the nose section. Before I will continue with the fuselage, the white paint needs to cure for a couple of days.
In the meantime, I began building the landing gear.
The next picture points out the small pieces, some of these are required for the gear.




The main gear struts are made of zinc and have a rougher surface than resin parts. You can cover this by some heavier applications of primer. Initially, I added the torsion links for the main and the nose gear legs and the landing light on the nose gear, see the next photo.



This scale is asking for many details, hence I added a few hydraulic lines and finally the debris deflector, the latter being part of the kit.







Just for fun, I was trying the photo realistic cabin windows made by my brother. I`ll remove these later when applying the final decals. Before putting the fuselage into the paint shop, I had to decide about the livery. Two Six decals was very helpful and designed a Pan Am billboard livery, representing N368PA, Clipper Goodwill, which performed the last PA flight.

 

Here are the finished stabilizers. Only a little cleaning of seams from the molds required and they were ready for the paint.



Another shot of the cockpit.

 

 

 

I did prepare the 4 air conditioning louvers which shall be placed in the rectangular open areas in the bottom of the WBF. You will need the PE parts #4 for this.
At first carefully bend the sites a seen below




Next, these parts, looking like a small box now, should be affixed to a piece of 0,4mm styrene, cut out, and then, the segments of the louvers can be bend. I have found out that a scalpel is a good tool for this.





Unfortunately, I decided to insert the finished louvers after the paint job. This turned out to be a bad decision, because you certainly need a bit of filling and sanding here, too. I highly recommend to do this before you are ready to paint the lower fuselage.
The result on my build is not very good, hence I will not take a close picture, only a shot from a greater distance.


 

 

 

I just finished the wingtips.
At first, I scratch build the 2 red and green navigation lights and put these in place. They are not part of the kit.




Next, I removed the clear wingtip pieces from the sprue. This should be done very carefully, as they are rather brittle. Using a drill, I was able to make these clear pieces hollow, again this should be done gently. Eventually, all surfaces were polished and attached to the wingtips by using a clear parts cement.
At the trailing edge of the wingtips are a fuel dump valve and another white navigation light.
For molding requirements, you`ll find only a short neck on the wings of the kit. The navigation light ( at the outer position ) shall be extended by using a plastic rod of 1mm diameter. To improve the look, I attached a 1mm lens.
The fuel dump valve, which is shorter, was done by using a 1mm hollow brass tube.
Unfortunately, I have done all this after painting the wings. Again, the wrong way and it looks not as clean and nicely as aimed for.






 

I almost forgot to show you the photo of the completed wing root landing light.

 

Completing the main landing gear, called MLG.
The upper part of the MLG looks like an acute-angled triangle with a round forward piece.
The longest side of the triangle, math. the c side, is facing outboard. On the next photo you`ll see the left MLG on the left and its counterpart on the right.




Insert the round forward piece of the upper part of the MLG into this hole while pushing the rear part firmly to the surface of the MLG bay. You`ll get nicely hinged MLGs rather like the real ones. To affix them into position, use a bit of 2-minute epoxy.
The inboard flap fairings have an outboard facing hole where the assembly of the MLG doors should be attached to, see the next photo.




Now comes the most delicate step, the attachment of the MLG doors. You`ll need the PE parts #2. There are 2 for each site, to show the structure from both sites, front and rear. After gluing the respective pieces, they need to be bonded to fit behind the forward support strut of the MLG and glued in place. It is rather difficult to describe this procedure completely, hopefully the next picture will explain more.



The nose gear doors shall be placed into the nose gear bay as follows:

 

Now some hints for the aft passenger stair.
The handrails are PE parts #3.
The 2 vertical poles are part of the retract/extend mechanism, and are not part of the kit, as they it is almost impossible to cast these pieces properly.
Please use a 1mm styrene pole cut into a lenght of about 30-35mm.
The next photo shows the completed aft stair.


 

After some light weathering and installing the antennas, water drains and pitots, the build is almost complete.
I still need to attach the partly drooped Kruger flaps, which should be delivered by the casting company in a few weeks.

My goal was to finish this build as a guidance as soon as possible, and I hope it will be useful for those of you building this kit.
It is not my best build, as I had to rush it a bit and I will take more care building the 721.